the west coast region

For years the West Coast region has taken a somewhat back seat to its more flambouyant sister, the east coast. However, in the last 10 - 15 years the West Coast has begun to claim the place that it deserves and been rediscovered by the discerning traveller as the exceptional and diversely intriguing place it truly is.

 The West Coast of Southern Africa is dry. There are only four perennial rivers between Cape Town and Angola. The Berg River with its estuary at Velddrift; the Olifants River with its estuary at Papendorp (did you know that?); the Orange River with its estuary at Alexander Bay (a seriously disturbed if not destroyed ecosystem that calls for international indignation); and the Kunene River with some of the biggest crocodiles in the world - the ultimate experience for the adrenaline junkies who canoe this river!

The Cape West Coast’s heritage is a product of diverse cultures such as the original Khoi inhabitants, whose rock art is still in evidence in the region today, and European missionaries who established seven mission stations throughout the region. It also houses beautiful restored buildings, like the birthplace of General Jan Smuts, museums, the grave of poet, doctor, novelist and food expert Louis Leipoldt and sites where the Anglo Boer war skirmishes took place.

The Cederberg Mountain is home to the most diverse and detailed rock art, a legacy left by hunter-gatherers centuries ago. There are hundreds of rocky overhangs and caves with fine examples of rock art. These paintings may be anything from 300 to 6000 years old and are sensitive to damage. They are an integral part of wilderness areas’ fascination and visitors should discover them for themselves. Rock art is protected by the National Monuments Act and vandals who deface rock paintings face fines of up to R10 000 or two years imprisonment, or both. Cederberg offers some of the most awe-inspiring rock formations in the country such as the Wolfberg Arch and Maltese Cross.

The Cape West Coast is synonymous with fishing, fishing and fishing – you can enjoy quaint beach dining on the freshest seafood you will ever have at Lamberts Bay and Saldanha Bay, and this is the area rich in bird-life along this coast of plenty.

Anyone who takes the R27 (Route 27) from Cape Town heading in a north-westerly direction, will soon find themselves the region commonly known as the West Coast. Its coastal towns are strung out along the Atlantic seaboard of South Africa within the Western Cape Province, extending from Blaauwberg (a popular surfing beach) in the Cape Metropolitan Area, to the provincial border of Namaqualand toward the north and inland to the Bokkeveld, Cedarberg and Groot Winterhoek mountain ranges. The region borders on the Cape's popular Winelands District to the south, the Breede River region to the east, and the Northern Cape Province to the north east. The Atlantic Ocean, with its cold Benguela Current plays in important role in the ecology of the region.

The land itself has certain unique geological features since it has remained virtually unchanged for millions of years. The Ice Ages with their vast glaciers which changed the landscape and vegetation of Europe so radically, did not reach down to this part of the world. In geological terms the region has remained unchanged, retaining its appearance and features over the ages. There have been changes in the level of the sea involving fluctuations of up to 120 m, but the temperate, dry, Mediterranean climate has prevailed here for the last five million years.

Unchanging conditions have allowed the vegetation to adapt unhindered to this habitat. The result of this slow development is the world-famous unique fynbos, consisting of an astonishing variety of different plants in a bewildering multitude of species, sub-species and local variants. The spectacular Floral Splendour of the West Coast, which attains its full magnificence in Namaqualand is the result of the adaptation of flowering plants to the area's dry summers and cool, wet winters.

Travellers from elsewhere, on seeing the West Coast for the first time, receive an initial impression of wide open landscapes somewhat dry and grey looking. The Atlantic laps invitingly against white beaches, yet the water is freezing cold. in spring the veld and its wild flowers are almost overwhelmingly beautiful, yet this splendour lasts for only a few weeks before the countryside fades once again into greyness .

People who have been there will tell you that the light and landscape of the West Coast reminds one of Greece. You won't find the lush, well-watered green landscapes of the south and east coasts; the charm of the West Coast is entirely different. Until recently the region was largely without water, but this has kept the long white beaches unspoilt and undeveloped, and most of the countryside shows few signs of human activity.

The Benguela Current is as nutrient-rich as it is cold, and its presence has shaped and influenced the region and its people in many unmistakable ways. There are only a few other places on Earth where winds and currents co-operate in this way to cause such upwellings of mineral-laden water from the depths of the ocean, supporting a wealth of marine life which is astounding in its diversity.

Travel inland from the coast and you'll find yourself amongst the undulating wheat fields and vineyards of the Swartland and among a peopl who have developed a sense of humour and attitude in keeping with the area.

Producing high-quality wines, the Swartland's five cellars and one estate have their own tasting centres staffed by knowledgeable, helpful personnel. Lush fruit plantations, expansive protea farms, vistas of natural veld flowers and rolling pastures grazed by sheep and cattle complete a picture any traveller would wish to rest their driving eyes on.

The Sandveld (so named because its sandy soil was, not too long ago, the seabed), is sandwiched between the Swartland and the West Coast. Often called the Western Cape's potato store, the region is a birdwatchers' paradise.

The people of this area are known not only for the rough-hewn inflection characterising their enunciation, but also for their outgoing hospitality, warm friendliness and keen cooking skills! So, take some time off from the cares of your world and learn to relax in the old-world tranquillity of theirs.

A region epitomising the diversity of the Western Cape, the Olifants River Valley stretches over 300km from Citrusdal in the south to Bitterfontein in the north, and from the Atlantic Ocean in the west to its natural eastern boundary, the mountainous Cape Fold Belt, an imposing landmass including the spectacular Cederberg, Gifberg, Matsikamma and Bokkeveld ranges.

The long, fertile valley is extensively cultivated. A remarkable irrigation system comprising canals channels water to farms concentrating on citrus, fruit, vegetable and grape production. The citrus area, between Citrusdal and Clanwilliam, is the third-largest in South Africa. Through the winter months, the Olifants River Valley is filled with the heady scent of oranges.

The enlivening aroma of orange blossom in spring and freshly picked oranges in winter is enhanced visually by the golden splendour of orange groves lining the river. Wine, too, plays a big role in the Olifants River Valley's success. The wine route, from Citrusdal to Lutzville, boasts a proud selection of internationally acclaimed wines. Yet another crop setting this wellspring of agricultural riches apart from others, is the indigenous shrub from which the world-renowned, peculiarly South African Rooibos Tea is produced.

The Olifants River Valley is known not only for its agriculturebut also for iIts awe-inspiring scenic beauty and the fascinatingly distorted rock formations of its mountain areas that put it in a class of its own. The Cederberg Wilderness Area is a well-known, extremely popular and accessible hiking destination. Khoi-San rock paintings, occur in many places, from the Cederberg to the Koebee Mountains.

Rock lobster enthusiasts flock to the coastal towns of Doringbaai and Strandfontein each season and thousands of breeding Jackass Penguins, Cape Cormorants and other seabirds can be seen on Bird Island off Lamberts Bay.

Beyond the life-giving waters of the Olifants River and just north of Klawer, is a vast plain, the Knersvlakte. The land is arid and dry. The Olifants River Valley borders Namaqualand and shares in the annual, pyrotechnic display of wild flowers. From the coast to the mountains, the land becomes one under a mantle of brilliant colour bestowed all too briefly by Nature's capacity for miracles.