The various regions of the S.A. West Coast

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the maskam
from 'West Coast' by Cornell Truter

The Maskam takes its name from the most prominent peak of the Matzikama Mountain range, a familiar landmark in the region north of theOlifants River valley.

Vanrhynsdorp is the centre of the area, lying at the foot of the mountain, which towers high above it. The flat top of the mountain, with its shiny, copper coloured edge is a spectacular sight. Matzikama is a compound Nama word meaning’ give me water’.

There are a number of mountains here - the Gifberg , Matzikama, Koebee and Bokkeveld ranges with many sheltered valleys containing many fertile farms, lying between them. To the south lies the Doring River, a natural barrier betweem these ranges and the Pakuis Mountains and Cedarberg. The Olifants River is the western border on the north-west where the Hardeveld begins.

The Maslam is a region of extremes, ranging from lush green kloofs with waterfalls and a multitude of veld flowers to semi-desert . The average annual rainfall is in the region of 150mm , with much much higher levels recorded in the mountains. Though at first glance the area may appear arid and inhospitable, a featureless hot, dry area strtching on interminably, it has an eventful history and the folk who live here are particularly renowned for their hospitality.

Many farmers in the area practise mixed farming, with some wheat, lucerne, citrus and other fruit especially quinces, vegetables and potatoes, beef and sheep being farmed. There is an abundance of sweet underground water used for households and for irrigation. Rooibos tea is grown on higher ground and some fruit and vegetables are also grown. The Rooibos Tea industry is a fascinating one and worth investigating.

Mother Nature seems to have wanted to compensate for the arid conditions by making the area around Vanrhynsdorp rich in mineral wealth and various commodities such as Marble and gypsum are mined here.

The largest succulent nursery in Africa is found here and while offering a huge and mind-boggling variety of these plants, also serves to conserve them for the future.

The Knersvlakte is a desert of small , white pebbles and has an average rainfall of a mere 75mm per year. The stones play an important role in the survival of the myriad succulents: firstly they protect the plants against erosion and secondly, in thehot summer months, when temperatures reach up to 40º, they reflect the sun’s rays and thus protect the plants’ roots against heat and dehydration.
A local farmer, Mr Buys Wiese, has fenced off a section of his farm, Quaggaskop, which has not been grazed for more than20 years. As a result, the indigenous plants of the area have re-established themselves. The plants are so small and well camouflaged that it would be impossible to walk there without stepping on them, so a paved pathway has been laid for visitors to walk on.
Among the curious and quaintly named succulents found here are bokspoortjies (buck tracks), kameelspoor (camel tracks), baby toes, tacky bushes (a variety of Crassula), candle bushes and hitchhikers. The crab eye cacti are so small that up to a hundred per square metre can be counted. This plant has a dark purple flower, whilst most of the other plants have either pink or yellow flowers. Hitchhikers (Dactyliosis digita) and babies’ bottoms (Argyroderma pearsonii) are found nowhere else in the world.

In spring this area is a showcase for the Namaqualand and Hardeveld when the whole area, especially the Koebee and Bokkeveld Mountains are transformed into a kaleidoscope of colour in a matter of days.