The various regions of the S.A. West Coast

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The Spice Route Wine Company
The Spice Route Wine Company

Five centuries ago the ancient mariners braved uncharted seas to round the Cape in search of exotic spices. Their nerve and dash inspired Charles Back to found the Spice Route Winery in 1997. Charles had bought the farm Klein Amoskuil, and this Malmesbury based farm is now home to Spice Route's Swartland terroir styled wines.

The Swartland area is one of the key emerging and developing wine producing regions in the Western Cape. Deep ferric and composite soils allow for dryland viticulture, and the untrellised bushvines produce grapes of intense concentration and in turn complex, rich flavoured wines. The cooling Atlantic breezes lend natures hand in the vineyard, and help sustain the vines through the hot warm dry summers, and cool wet winters. Charles Back was one of the first to recognise the incredible potential of this area, and The Spice Route Wine Company now has approximately 140ha under vine at the Malmesbury property.

 

Careful research and consideration has gone into selecting the varietals best suited to the Swartland’s unique terroir. Red varietals such as Syrah, Pinotage, Mourvèdre, Carignan, Merlot and Grenache have been selected, and the fruit continues to deliver on the promise that the land showed. Viognier, and Chenin Blanc have also produced exceptional wines, and the recently acquired vineyards at Darling present wonderful opportunities.

Darling is increasingly regarded as the prime Sauvignon Blanc growing area in the Western Cape. Spice Route owner Charles Back recently acquired vineyards on the hills above Darling, with views of the Atlantic ocean which is approximately 20km away. These cool breezes, combined with deep soils provide prime Sauvignon Blanc growing conditions, and Spice Route has 40ha under vine at this site. While this is predominantly Sauvignon Blanc, there are also plantings of a number of other interesting varietals, relatively unknown in South Africa, satisfying the innovative and experimental nature of the company’s owner. The Darling site is also dryland farmed, and is untrellised.

Scenes from Fairview Wine Estate
n 1997, Charles Back, having established Fairview as one of South Africa’s most commercially successful and popular wine estates, bought a farm called Klein Amoskuil near Malmesbury in the Swartland region north-west of Paarl, then rather better known for its wheat than its wine. It was the next step in applying his philosophy to ‘go where the terroir is’. Says Back: ‘I wanted to break away from the estate concept, which constrains a property owner, not necessarily blessed with the best viticultural land, from exploring the wine styles and levels of quality he aspires to. For me the quality of the wine became more important than the name of its source.’ The relaxation of legislation confining wine growers from producing in designated areas gave the entrepreneurial Back free rein to set out and find new vineyard sites to expand beyond what his inherited farm Fairview could offer in terms of new styles of wine, particularly reds, expressive of the Cape’s Meditteranean climate. He found it in the combination of mixed clay-gravel laterite and deep, red, decomposed granite soils of Klein Amoskuil.

In just two years he transformed the place. Underperforming Chenin Blanc, Cinsaut and Pinotage vines were grubbed up, though select blocks of 40-year-old Chenin and Pinotage, which promised – and subsequently delivered – distinctive wines, were retained. Warm-climate reds, many new to the Cape and historically at home in the Rhône, South of France and Italy, were established: Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Petite Syrah, Barbera, Tannat, Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Carignan. Also some Viognier (as seasoning for the rich, full-blooded Rhône reds Back was convinced the vineyards would deliver); the port variety Souzão; a Bordeaux classic Merlot; and the Cape’s own warm-blooded red grape: Pinotage. All in all: some 120ha.

Back bucked viticultural trends of the time, adopting practices dictated by the immediate environment: dryland (un-irrigated) bushvines, with just four to five fruiting spurs per vine. He chose to be satisfied with the resultant low production levels of around three to four tons per hectare: ‘There was not enough natural moisture to sustain more… so be it!’ Hot, dry summers are balanced by deep, moisture-retentive soils which remain cool. And night temperatures are also surprisingly temperate, effectively slowing the ripening process – especially important for the late-ripening varieties – to close the gap between high sugars and phenolic ripeness.

The farm did not have a cellar, so an old tobacco drying shed was converted into a modern production and barrel maturation facility to very precise specifications. Handling some 500 tons of fruit, it’s equipped with mainly 12- and 18-ton stainless steel fermentation tanks, as well as five-ton open concrete and French oak fermenters. Maturation is in 225l barrels, primarily French but also some American oak. Between 40 and 60 per cent of the 1 000-odd barriques are renewed each year, depending on the requirements of the vintage, style of wine and quality of fruit.

That the winery was completed in just three months is again a sure sign of a man on a mission: that’s Charles Back. Though this project initially involved friends and industry compatriots Gyles Webb of Thelema, wine writer John Platter and wine ‘activist’ Jabulani Ntshangase (tireless in his quest to promote wine and winemaking as a profession among young black people), the partnership was eventually dissolved, leaving Back to continue moving full steam ahead to realise the enormous potential of the Spice Route venture.

From the start, this innovative vintner with the brave and adventurous spirit has succeeded in finding like-minded individuals to make his Spice Route wines. First on board (from the maiden 1998 through the 2001 vintage) was the young maverick Eben Sadie, who quickly started turning out wines that both earned critical acclaim and had broad appeal, in South Africa and internationally. His departure to follow an independent path was inevitable and always understood, given that he and his mentor were cut by the same cloth! Sadie’s sizable shoes have been more than ably filled by current Spice Route craftsman Charl du Pessis. Back puts it in a nutshell: ‘The man has enormous passion for wine and pays incredible attention to detail – with talented winemakers it’s usually either the one or the other; it’s rare to find both in one.’

In essence, the Spice Route Winery’s name reflects what the vineyard, the wines and the people are all about. It recalls the ancient mariners of the 15th century braving the tempestuous waters of the ‘Cape of Storms’ as they plyed their trade bringing exotic Eastern spices to Western Europe along the so-called ‘Spice Route’. (The view of Table Mountain from the Spice Route vineyards takes the imagination back to the scene which would have greeted those bygone sailors as they rounded the Cape Peninsula). In much the same way Charles Back went sailing into largely uncharted waters on his route to realising the viticultural potential of this part of the Swartland wine region. His venture’s name is equally evocative of the style of wines being made: rich, complex yet infinitely enjoyable, with ripe fruit of the finest quality skillfully enhanced by the addition of fragrant wood… much as carefully selected spices bring out the flavours in a dish.

 

Spice Route Winery - Visit Us

The Spice Route cellar in Malmesbury is not currently open to the public, but all of our wines can be tasted and purchased at Fairview in Paarl. We look forward to seeing you there!

Opening times:
Mon - Fri: 08:30 – 17:00
Sat 08:30 – 16:00
Sun 09:30 – 16:00

Public Holidays:
Open, except for New Years Day, Good Friday and Christmas

Address:
Fairview
Suid Agter Paarl Road
Suider Paarl

Tel. +27 21 8632450
Fax. +27 21 8632591
E-mail: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it

 

 

In an effort to help put this glorious region more firmly on the map, we have pulled together as much information as we can, accrediting authors where necessary and providing links to websites or email addresses. If we have inadvertantly used your article or photograph without giving you full accreditation, we apologise and if you notify us we will rectify this immediately.