Waterfalls, waterfalls Everywhere...

By Liberty Verbaan and Jeff Rusch
Photos by Laurent Hessemans 

it was a cramped escape from an overcrowded city. The car was jammed with camping gear, firewood, birthday presents, a giant cake and an indeterminate number of people.

Going by the traffic on the N1, we weren't the only ones on a mission to flee Cape Town on a  hot Friday afternoon. Heading out in search of silence and solitude, we prayed that not everyone else on the road was out looking for it in the same place as us.

It seemed unlikely. From what we had heard, Waterval is a word-of-mouth kind of place. The kind of place that attracts people who love nature forwhat it is and not because it provides an opportunity to kill fish or get savagely drunk and party all night.

We thought we might have the place to ourselves and were momentarily taken aback to find other tents dotted around the shady campsite. This being a weekend of birthday celebrations, albeit of the low-key variety, we had booked ahead and wasted no time in colonizing the most remote campsite available. Our patch of heaven lay beneath a wise old tree right at the base of an enchanting waterfall.

Tents sprang up, drinks were passed around and a great fire was built. At dusk, our working class friends from the city arrived, bearing gifts and good cheer. It wasn't long before our very own civilisation had been established.

Later, after a short yet interesting and quite possibly ill-adviesed walk up the mountain trail by the light of the moon, we feell asleep to the momentarily nervewracking sound of silence.

Waking up to find our fabulous chocolate cake ravaged beyond repair caused a moment of anguish. We suspected the culprit to be a roaming golden retriever from Bellville, judging by the way he followed us around smiling for the rest of the day.

Coffee made from waterfall water always tastes better and soon everyone was awake and semi-coherent, ready to tackle the trail that winds for several kilometres up an indigenous wooded gorge. Following the yellow markings and a bright blue bird that popped in and out of sight, it wasn't long before we reached the first waterfall and a tangle of vibrant flowers. The water, like the iar was crisp and clean and we splashed and swam like excited teenagers. Which, in fact, most of us were.

Climbing higher we reached a narrow metal bridge hugging the side of the cliff. The magnificent view rendered us speechless. Some said it more the climb than the view that left them breathless.

Above us the gorge was bathed in the early morning sun. It enticed us to keep going. The trail became fairly steep in parts and we had to negotiate a series of ladders - something that could pose a challenge for small children and the elderly. For those who stick the course, the rewards are bountiful, indeed. On every new tier is another waterfall - 22 in all - cascading and crashing into pools and onto the rocks. Keeping cool certainly isn't a problem on this trail and you'll never be short of drinking water.

We felt so far away from everything. We also felt a bit lost, since nobody had seen any trail markers for some time. Spread out below us was the verdant patchwork valley connecting Porterville and Piketberg. Fields of bright yellow flowers added bursts of colour to the quilt. We had found the solitude we came looking for.

After another stunning night under a star-spengled sky, we reluctantly packed up and started the two hour drive back to the city. We'll be back

DIRECTIONS:

 From Cape Town take the N7 to Piketberg on to the R44 towards Porterville. At the T-junction turn right and pass though an avenue of trees. As the trees end, turn onto a dirt road. Waterval Farm is signposted from the R44 and is located at the foot of the Olifants River Mountains, 90kms from Cape Town.

The Big Issue. 13 November